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That is a very hard to find kit.

Your floor covering is very realistic looking.

These adds are like the "Snake Oil Salesmen" of old. They try and sell you a drug for a sickness you didn't even know you had. The Insurance adds are truly false advertising but they pay their co-conspirators well. My feeling is that one of the reasons our insurance coverage is so expensive is the advertising expenses. Last year with a big increase in our Home & Auto. Insurance I shopped around with the different companies that promise to save us hundreds. Not only were the companies I checked with in a Big Mac of the old policy they somehow knew what our premiums were now. The inquires to the credit bureaus also meant our credit score was effected and we have had no credit issues and no claims. Now they want to prorate any claims for roof damage since our "40 year roof" is now 15 years old. They aren't adjusting the premiums except going up, and only reducing the protection. Now these same advertisers will not let us read our Forum in peace. Do I sound upset yet.

I have used Tamiya Putty white and been pleased with the results. Easily sanded when smoothing the area afterwards.

If the chassis mounting pins are going to be visible the Brass or paper clip ideas might work best. Should this be only for strength and not be seen often just a portion of a staple from a normal desk top stapler might serve the same purpose and they can easily be bent a little if need be to align the mounting.

Land Yachts you say. Round 2 has reissued an old MPC kit of the '70 Pontiac Bonneville that has several build options. The kit represents a Convertible with the option of being built as a pickup. The chassis is the old metal axel thru the engine style that can easily be changed. A Hard Top could be barrowed from kit if need be. This was a large car, and the kit is a long full size car so this may be a thought and the complete kit can be had for less than a Resin Body alone.

The mark on the door looks more like it was exposed to some sort of heat. I'm sure you inspected the body when you opened the kit and this would have been noticed. just my thought, but it looks to me as if the body came out of the mold before it should have been or was exposed to a heat source and was rubbing on something. I guess paint damage is possible but I think the damage would appear differently. This shouldn't be to hard to repair. I like how your color on the chassis turned out.

I had a friend in SoCal that went to work for the SP and was training to be an engineer. He said they had a couple of instances where they "Kissed the Train". I.E. they would jump in front of the train. He said he was warned about it but there was no way to avoid it so he was told to bring the Train to a safe stop and not lock the wheels. Makes me sad that anyone would ever want to do that.

Sounds like some quality sanding time. That is a bummer. I like the seat colors also. The reason I mentioned Cows instead of Pigs is that the Cow's offer better coverage and more interesting splatter patterns.

The reason I asked was that it is something I have thought about buy never have gotten to. I was thinking that I could graft the frame and or suspension front and rear so that I wouldn't have to destroy the appearance of the C1. The tread width may have to be narrowed some.

Ya, I saw this pop up and had wondered also. This was off to a great start.

Great looking Comet. I like the little extra paint touches on the side of the body.

As everyone else has commented, The paint is outstanding. I like the wheels also, I might have put just a little less camber on the front but that is the style. You should be very proud of how this turned out.

Beautiful looking build. Looks like it is on the new car showroom floor.

Beautiful looking build. Dark color are hard to photograph and show how good the finish is. Just look at the first picture and a few of the others, and you can see a perfect reflection of the headlight in the hood. Sort of says it all there. As others have mentioned the way you blended the parts from different kits adds to the caricature of this build. The interior looks like well worn leather and the finish on the top looks like very expensive cloth.

This has the right look. What was the source of the wheels ??

I have used your same paint setup here to build a model of a car I owned long ago. Personally I use mostly Tamiya paints unless Testor's has a better color match. You might consider using the Tamiya polishing compounds. They have three grades, but looking at your picture I suggest just going to "Finish" since you already have a great looking paint job. This product will really smooth out the finish and deepen the shine even further. I like your Orange Chevy and I remember your build on the Hudson, that's the only reason I bought a kit of that model.

I like this concept. Like you, I have seen a few of these 1:1's done. Mostly at Mecum Auctions, most look pretty original except for the wheels and the windshield. Was there a particular C6 kit you're using ??

I would say this build is in very capable hands. I'll enjoy watching this come together.

You could do that and work it around with the kits single 4 barrel and just make a tubing from the super charger to the standard carb. if you prefer. For the ease of using the kits fan belt just mount the super charger in that position. This is from the era of floating Alt. and super chargers so a little scrap of plastic would make a great looking mounting bracket between the engine and the housing. I like the stance and the wheel choice goes well with it.

Thanks for the tip.

I really like what you're doing on this build. STITCHUP's suggestion on moving the roof forward should save you lengthening the roof section. I would offer just two suggestions. Since you're making it a two door. Move the B Pillar toward the rear of the body to represent the back edge of the door. This would make the proportions look better. This would take some extra slicing and dicing with the wood trim, but I think it would look more like a two door than a four door with the rear door nailed shut. The filler panels from the custom coupe is something I never thought of and depending on the style you're going for that may actually give the body a sleeker appearance. You might want to see how you want to mate that panel with the wood trim. You might remove the upright wood trim on everything except the door and create wood trim of a size like the area over the rear fender, and run that along as the break between the wood and the filler panel. Again that filler panel idea really does give this a Kustom look.

This kit had an engine option of 2 four barrel carbs., and a super charger. The super charger mounts to the right side outer pully on the fan belts. The ducting from the rear of the super charger splits into a "Y" and that mounts to the air cleaners. This represents the old Paxton super charger that was produced first for Studebaker and Ford products. They were located in Santa Monica Cal., on Olympic Blvd.

Enough with the TP problems. We can't do a whole lot about that now, but hopefully soon. These popup ads are out of control. I guess a few are necessary to pay for the forum but, and this is a very big but, when they're running over posts and in between them so you can't even find what you're looking for it becomes a problem. I have noticed a steady rise in this problem and the fact that there was updates done this last week end, is it possible that they are somehow now allowed easier entry to the Forum ?

That is a long time, but it sure looks like it was time well spent.