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Not that it looks like you need any inspiration. Lately I have been getting watching Rally racing on YTube and they have pictures of some pretty bad offs. I think you are doing a great job beating up this poor Porsche, just thought you might get some ideas there is all.

I guess you're just like some of the people here that refuse to own a domestic car. LOL

I'll be watching. I like woodies.

I don't know what your experience with travel have been like, but if you can't get in carry on I would ship them some other way. I have seen aluminum hard side suite cases ripped open by the time they get to the luggage area. I think the air lines use wood chipper machines to load the language in an air plane.

The above mentioned '50 Ford pickup that AFX mentioned is the one you want, the one with the blue truck on the box and it's molded in blue. I just pulled the one I had in my stash and the only engine is a stock Flat Head. While this is a great kit I think that the reason so many walked past it in the past was that it was a stock only kit. The kit has some nice White Wall tires and the White Walls are separate. This may or may not be a plus for you but I'm sure you have others Black Wall tires depending on what you're building. There is a nicely detailed single Exhaust system and. The engine has a separate Intake plus single Carb. and stock Oil Bath type Air Filter. At the rear of the engine it has a well done Oil Filter and Fuel Pump. It would be easy to run lines to these if you want to go to that extent. The Distributer Head and Oil Filler are separate also along with the Generator and Fan. The Exhaust Manifolds and Starter motor are also separate. Looking at this engine now I'm thinking that if someone was wanting a stock Flat Head this is the way top go.

I think that as long as everything you are painting is metal and no plastic parts are involved you could use most any automotive type paints safely without any problems. As suggested I would block sand the body to uncover any wavy body parts. I would also use a good quality automotive spray primer followed by additional block sanding. Since you will have an amount of paint buildup you should clean and deepen any body panel and trim lines just as you would on plastic so they don't get lost under the paint work.

The Revell '66 Impala that Rodent mentioned is very well done. The Revell '83 Oldsmobile model would also be good. This is one of the latest kits so I'm thinking the tooling and design should be good.

I would vote for the Tamiya white primer as a base for the Inca Gold. I have used this color a couple of times using the spray can. I didn't experience any problems and used two light coats of paint followed by a clear coat. You might consider a base coat over your primer that is close to your finish color. You could use a light Gold or even a Yellow. For me spraying from the can the coverage was good and polished up well. You must remember there are so many things that go into a great paint job that the possibilities of difference from one paint job to the next is great.

I think they got a lot wrong on this made up picture Even the setting is wrong as there are no Airport Buildings to be seen. Renault must have been on a real tight advertising budget at the time. Thank you for your professional input.

Mine were all two wheel drive so they are very different. Sorry I was just trying to help out based on my own experience. Man you sure are paying a premium for have a US type truck.

Those remind me of many of the after market turn signals of the day. Notice how the front turn signal is not part of the Parking Lights and the same in the rear. Many of my formative years were in the 'burbs of Chicago. I lived for a time in Wilmette in the early '50's. They had a city ordinance regarding any car left parked at the curb overnight. Even if it was your residence you were required to phone, remember there was no internet, the Wilmette Police Department with the information as to owner ship of the car and its exact location. They also required that the car have it's Parking Lights, I guess that's were the name came from, on all night until dawn. How many old 6 volt batteries do you think made it thru the night especially in subzero weather ??

I have also noticed the cost of repairs at the dealership have gone thru the roof and they very proud of their parts, meaning high priced. I had to replace the water pump on our '10 Dodge Charger R/T a couple of months ago. They wanted $400 for the pump and the parts store was almost just as much. Well up until now I have always done this sort of repair myself. I got to looking down into the area between the front of the engine and the radiator and all the stuff is crammed in there so tight my hands wouldn't even fit. I messed with it for about an hour and just bit the bullet and paid the dealer $800 to replace it. The wife's '14 Avenger had a Thermostat that wouldn't close all the way and kept the engine from reaching normal operating temperature. Dealer cost $250. Now a thermostat r & r is really simple, except when the engine is mounted east/west instead of north/south. The new thermostat only cost $23 and about an hour of cursing. The two mounting bolts for the housing are in a location that a socket can't git into and you only get a quarter turn on the bolt with a box end and the inner fender is like a cheese grater on your hand and for arm. I have done this operation on a couple of pick ups in the past. Mine were 1/2 tons but the principals are the same. You mentioned the ABS fault light. What can happen is that as the inner wheel bearing seal wears it will allow some of the wheel bearing grease to get onto the sensor wheel for the ABS on the hub. This will look much like gear that doesn't mesh anywhere. Chevrolet has a small sensor that will ride on that and senses if the wheel is locking up and the other side is not. Any grease contamination seems to cause all types of problems. When ever you repack your wheel bearings be sure this area is clean. I use a light spray of Brake Clean and a shop rag to wipe it clean.

The entire photo was probably photoshopped or what ever it was called at the time. I would think they would have had the plan taking off although at that altitude the landing gear is up to soon. The lady at the Ramp looks as if she is saluting the plan as it leaves. The family in the Renault are waving good by to someone on the plane. Remember this is all before Homeland Security, but even then they wouldn't let someone get out in that area at an Air Port. Flying was a much bigger deal at that time and it wasn't cheap. The add was probably showing that the family is well off financially being able to have someone in the family flying but they still thought the Renault was a wise purchase even though they could afford a more expensive car. They look so sophisticated, don't you just want to go buy a new Renault right now so you to could be like them ?? That was the nature of advertising in the early '60's.

I had not seen the 4x2 intake setup before. The '50 Ford pickup Arden Head engine has 3x2 carb setup. In real life the 4x2 setup might give you a little better fuel distribution and a little bit high gas bill. As I recall T.J. was wanting something along the lines of a stock Flat Head. And Mr. Metallic pointed out the Lindberg engine would be a little out of scale plus it has the Fordomatic transmission.

Looks great. I like the bed floor, is that the kit decal or did you do that your self ? I built on of these last year and the glass fought me all the way.

Maybe it's the photography, but all the lines on this model look great. Cleanly built with nice chrome trim. I like how you left the wheels all one color without the ribs and outer edge polished as normally seen.

Very nice. I'll bet you enjoy reminiscing about your old car. I like the other models in your garage also.

Great looking Fairlane. The paint is outstanding. Looks very cleanly built and I like how you detailed the engine.

While they look neat I wonder how much the tint will cut down on the guy behind you being able to see your brake lights. Locally I have seen this done on some cars. Following them the first thing I noticed was that their brake lights were barely noticeable. Theirs looked like your photo but they may have been darker.

Nice save on your Corvair. There are several products at the auto parts stores for polishing the plastic head lights and tail lights on a 1:1 car. I have used them on kit windows that have been scratched and they worked great. Very fine grit and with light finger pressure they leave no scratches.

Are you casting new quarters and trim from the Fleet Line to replace the Drag modifications ?

I was in Overland Park yesterday and everything was the regular price. I bought a Round 2 AMT '71 Plymouth Duster 340. I thought I would build a model of a car a coworker had back then. It was a very impressive performing car.

As I recall most mid '50's era cars started to have the turn signal mechanisms built into the steering columns, some of the higher end cars got them sooner. I had an old '51 Chrysler New Yorker that had them built in. I don't recall ever seeing one after about 1955 that wasn't built in.

I think the Heads and Intake Manifold from any '49 thru '53 kit with a Flat Head would work. I've not done the conversion you are looking at, but think with a little work you could use any of the following. AMT: '49 &'50 Ford, and '53 Ford F-100 pickup. The AMT '50 Ford kit would also offer you the option of Aluminum heads and 3-2 intake. AMT also had a '49 Mercury kit that had some very nice Hot Rod parts for a Flat Head. I can't think of any Revell kits with the later Flat Head engine. If you want to built a really nice looking Flat Head look at Replicas & Miniature offerings. Their parts are very impressive quality and I have used them often and never been disappointed.

Great looking #41. All of the decals are cleanly laid out, and with this many that couldn't have been easy.